Greenland Arrival

S/Y Visions of Johanna
Thursday, July 18
Lying at Anchor, Storo Island, Greenland
0900 UTC

This anchorage is beautiful and we are safely cocooned in a land-locked bowl with only some growlers for company. The crew had worked hard to keep a diligent deck watch for the last 120 nm. of the passage and all of us were elated after anchor went down yesterday evening; celebratory beverages were passed around as our eyes feasted on the scenery. Events had really started at 4:30 AM; Chris had been on watch when he awakened me at to look at the radar and multiple targets. It was thick a' fog and we spent the next 6 hours on avoidance tactics, rotating personnel and working in pairs with one person (moi!) on radar watch and one on deck, visibility was perhaps 1/4 mile or less. We went through 3 bands of radar targets until we were finally provided a respite and we continued to fly toward the Greenland coast; we had made 195 nm. in the first 24 hours and Visions of Johanna did not tire as she kept her pace through the morning hours and the fog.

But Neptune was beneficent and much to our good fortune the fog cleared around 1 pm, some 50 nm. off the coast. I had gone down for a catch-up nap just before noon yesterday and was thrilled when the crew awakened me for the nice big surprise. The afternoon was sunny and the wind eased in the last 2 hours so that we made our final approach under engine in light winds and mild seas. All in all, couldn't have been better - the Leo principle once again!

The Storo anchorage approach was exciting, much anticipated and a proper finale. The anchorage approach, a convoluted dogleg with guardian growlers, was not visible until we were nearly upon it. Our entrance was described as breathtaking as we nosed toward the bay entry, weaving and dodging and hoping that the narrow channel which was partially obscured as we approached, was not occluded by big white and friends. Indeed there was plenty room for us to gently motor ahead around the local residents and through the choke point which was guarded by those grounded port and starboard sentries. Once into the bowl, it was still and calm and we anchored in 48' on the southern third of the head which was shallower than the northern half.

We awakened to a bright sunny day today. But we were not alone...growlers in the bay had congregated overnight to join us less than 10 meters from our transom. A short while later one did a back flip for us - really amazing but glad it was not any larger than it was. We gently prodded one away with our Tuk but as if to say that this was their bay, not ours, the encroachment continued until they were nearly upon us so we shortened chain as we prepared for departure.

Today we are heading to Tasiilaq via an inside route. There was some apprehension as the fog closed on us just as we exited the anchorage, but once again Neptune chuckled and then let us free. The fog lifted and we are underway. Breathtaking.

Best regards to all from Bill and crew
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