Lionfish, & Dolphins, & Caves, Oh My!

Nuie - South Pacific
19N 169 W

We had an excellent two tank dive this morning. First we headed north to Limu Point for what is called "The Twin Caves". The dive started in 30ft, then we went down a large hole to about 70-80, and explored a series the nooks and crannies before heading out a tunnel at the bottom. From there we went to the second cave which was darker before we connected through a smallish tunnel back to the first one. Neat lighting effects as well as some nice fish, including a very cool lionfish, one real big grouper-like fish, and a large puffer fish were the highlights. We finished the dive hanging out in 30ish feet checking out the reef fish.

During our surface interval we headed back south and were going to do a dive at the north end of the bay we are moored in, but the surge was a bit more than the dive master was happy with, so we started heading down to the south end of the mooring field. On our way we found a large pod of Dolphin and Ian had us get in the water... VERY COOL. The dolphin are amazing swimmers, sooooo carefree.

The second dive took us fully into an above waterlevel cave. After a quick visit to an anenomie and a leaf fish we headed in towards the island, and surfaced in a breathable chamber. The surge causes the pressure to fluctuate in the cave, so you had to constantly clear your ears, but the air is breathable, though very damp. The stalactites and stalagmites were amazing as were some other rock formations in there. Felt very Indiana Jones. After 10 mins or so we swam back out, through several "swim throughs" and finished along a wall for a final hang out with reef fish. Mom and I had plenty of air, so we headed down the wall to 60 feet to check some things out, saw a ray, and some other very pretty small fish.

The coral in this northern area is fairly dead after the cyclone several years ago, but rock formations are VERY cool, and the fish life seems to be coming back. Plus there are a TON of sea snakes (not as scarry as they sound, but I don't really like them that much). Fish life is decent, but generally small, and visibility is AWESOME, about as good as Easter Island with 150'+ visibility.

Tomorrow we are having a birthday party for mom and Trish (both turning 42 we hear). Should be fun.

On to Nuie

20S 170W - Nuie

In hindsight, we were probably a little hasty in leaving Beverage Reef. We dove just outside the pass and were very disappointed to find that all the coral is DEAD and there aren't many fish either. The pass didn't look much better and it was fairly choppy inside the reef, especially at high tide so we decided to cut our losses and enjoy more time in Nuie. Scott & Cindy decided to tough it out another night and headed to the eastern edge of the lagoon where they tell us they found 3-4 wrecks and excellent live coral and fish and sharks. Sounds like it is all inside the reef (haven't found a shortcut out and the dingy ride around would be QUITE long, so depths are shallow.

In any event, we had a decent passage to Nuie...a bit rolly and not quite enough wind to keep the sails from slatting, but good enough. There were 6 boats traveling that night so it kept us on our toes, slaloming through traffic. The moorings here are very nice and the anchorage isn't too rolly (yet at least). People are super friendly and there is supposed to be excellent diving, plus the whales are just starting to arrive. If the weather holds out we should be here about 2 weeks. Plus there is free internet from the Mormons so life is pretty good.

More soon.

Beverage Reef Arrival

20 00.65S 167 46.64W - Middle of Nowhere -- Beverage Reef

We just pulled into Beverage Reef, which is pretty much as close as you can get to anchoring in the middle of the ocean. The closest dry land is 100+ miles away in Nuie. Pretty cool place, and water looks very clear.

I had a miserable passage as I had a flu like illness that kept me in bed with a 103 degree fever for much of the trip. Luckily it was an easy, calm passage and I am doing better now (just a scratchy throat left over). Should be here a few days, then on to Nuie.

Check out our position on the Yotreps position report (link to the right) to see where we are.

en route to Beveridge Reef

19 46.6 S 167 09.0W between Palmerston atoll and Beveridge Reef

Helllo out there...Currently en route from Palmerston atoll to Beveridge Reef in light winds and calmish seas. We left Palmerston Fri afternoon and were able to sail nicely for about 28 hrs with 20-25 k winds but behind us so pretty comfortable. Seas were reasonable which made for a much more enjoyable passage than the last few. By dinner toniight the winds had died so we are now motorsailing for the last 12 -14 hrs. Should reach Beveridge at light Sun morn. We are travelling with 4 other boats on this leg which has been different...neat to see sails in the day and lights at night only a couple of miles away...also reason to pay more attention!!! This convoy heading to Beveridge should prove interesting as there is nowhere to go besides on the boats. There is no land there...just the reef so we will be on board or in the water the whole time Trying to figure out the logistics of socializing with 14 people with this scenario but at least hoping for some good diving for a couple of days. Can only stay there in very settled weather so will most likely be a 3-4 day stop before heading to Niue.

Palmerston proved to be an interesting stop. It is a small atoll in the Southern Cook Islands which is English speaking tho' the dialect gave us a few problems. Kind of under the auspices of New Zealand. They use the NZ dollar tho' it did not matter as there is nothing to spend your money on anyway. These folks live off the fish they catch and what stores they can lay in when the supply ship comes which is only every 6-8 months...talk about basic. However they were very friendly and hospitable. Actually the cruisers have become their lifeblood with civilization and bring goods to trade and share so we are really welcomed.

There are currently 67 people living there...probably in about 8-10 households (lots of kids per family). I think we heard that 30 kids attend the 1 room schoolhouse. They seem to place education as a priority and use an American program called ACE...accelerated Christian education...definitely no division of church and school exists as we saw many references to Jesus Christ and God within the teaching program and curiculum. The kids seemed bright and well spoken so at least that is a positive. They do have internet which I am sure has changed their reality alot. Story is that one man, William Marsters settled here with a Polynesian wife and two cousins who he also had as "wives" tho they were not ever married. The familiies there now are all descendants of these three famililes and trace their lineage to the three women so there are 3 distinct clans.They all have the last name of Marsters! You must marry outside your own clan...to either one of the other families or an outsider. You then belong to the family you have married into. There is a bit of a territorial aspect to all of this and we were each hosted by a family who then had "rights" to us. They took us under their wings while we were there...transporting us in and out of the anchorage thru the pass in their skiffs and feeding us on the island. We had one lunch with all the boats (there were 8 there at the same time) tho' our hosts would not eat with us...oinly after we had finished so some odd customs. They gave us all tours and talked about the history of Palmerston with great pride. Very interesting...Gram said he kept hearing banjos!!

Friday morning Bill and I went on a dive before we left Palmerston. Gram did not feel well so stayed on board. It was a great dive...right off the boat and down the wall of the reef to about 65 or 70 ft. Drop dead gorgeous coral...there were lilac and turquoise patches and even a lime green one that we had never seen before. Good fish and the highlight was a huge turtle that swam with us for awhile. His shell was about 6 ft long and then there were his legs,arms,head and tail so he was a big guy!! Very regal and very cool. Gram had a high fever over the night so we got to experience crusing with only 2 to cover the watch schedule...definitley alot more tiring. Finally by dinner tonight he seems to be on the mend so hopefully will be ready and rearing to go once we reach Beveridge...Well time for me to turn over my watch and get a little more sleep.

Best of the Society Islands Leeward Group (aka The Huahine Chronicals)

Aitutaki, Cook Islands
Anchored outside pass
18 51.35S/159 48.8W

We arrived Aitutaki early yesterday morning and anchored just south of the pass in mixed coral heads and sand ravines - not ideal conditions. We timed our arrival with diminished seas, and are only rolling moderately; all is well on board. We will report more about our re-entry into english speaking islands once our baguette withdrawl recedes (one can sufficate here in a sea of white bread). In the meantime, the following information will be of interest to those who follow us:

Our...Best of the Society Islands Leeward Group (aka The Huahine Chronicals)

1. Huahine

Huahine is the most laid back/quiet large island in FP. An absolute favorite spot (and a great cruising experience) was at the Motu Murimahora anchorage on the east side of the island. We entered Pass Farerea, immediately turning south towards Bai Apoomati and Motu Murimahora. Following a line of island side marks as we proceeded south, we snuck into a narrow channeled harbor on this quiet side of the island. As you approach the middle point of the motu, the line of marks on your right side ends but continues with marks a bit farther down on the (left) motu side. Between the sets of marks you will find a gorgeous anchorage in a 17 foot deep, broad, plateau of sand at 16 45.86S/150 57.56W.

We made a shore excursion as we heard there were fruits/veggies for sale. Immediately south of a prominent and fancy "plantation" belonging to the family that owns the large grocery in Fare, we met 2 families and were given cantaloupes, papayas, string beans, bok choy, and fresh herbs; neither family would take money. Pascal is the husband residing in the second house, along with spouse and many children. They hardly accepted the gifts we returned with later that day. The children took chocolates however, and we also gave some veggie seeds to help their burgeoning vegetable growing business, starting soil, a pair of extra reef flip-flops, and 2 nat'l geo mags for the children learning english. Our friends Steve and Trish brought some pens and pencils, sunglasses, and a frisbee for the kids. As a final thank you, we took the children "tubing" the next morning before we left. What a hoot!

Fare was a friendly village. There is one anchorage on your left as you enter off the beach by town. We continued around to the right and anchored at the edge if the channel on either side of the green buoy opposite Bank Taiuriu. There is good provisioning at the grocery although it was a bit more expensive than Papeete, and fresh produce was hit and miss. There is an enjoyable waterfront bar/restaurant by the dinghy landing, and a few crafts shops in town. Roads were flat and newly paved which made for some excellent cycling. We dove Pass Avapehi but coral was not healthy and the dive was just ok.

There is not enough swing room to anchor in the small cove inside Bank Taiuriu. Baie Fiti is a wind tunnel with SE winds. Anchoring inside Port Bourayne was difficult. And we anchored just outside. We did not make it as far as Baie D'Avea, as winds were fresh and the anchorage too exposed.

2. Tahaa/Raitea

The lagoon encompassing these two islands is a large area, and we only explored some of it. We spent several nights on the southern extent of Tahaa at the Taravana YC, located just inside Baie Apu, immediately on your right as you approach. The YC is now owned/operated by Richard, and he can be contacted at 689 656101 (office) or 689 280808 (cell) There is no charge for the moorings if you use the bar and restaurant. Richard hosts a buffet dinner and Polynesian dance presentation Tuesday evenings for 6000f/pp. Dinner includes water and wine, and the performers are young locals with infectious enthusiasm. Note: Tuesday moorings usually require a reservation as they fill quickly.

We took the dingy into the bay and hiked to a vanilla distributor where we saw preparation of the plant and product. There was also good cycling around Tahaa.

Fuel and provisioning are available at the main village of Utaroa. The Shell station has a guest dock nearly in the middle of town, but does not offer duty free fuel. The Total station is located just north at the head of the small inlet adjacent to the municipal marina, and Total does offer duty free diesel. We fueled at Total late morning on Saturday, and then were able to lie there for the afternoon (they operate 7-11AM on Saturdays & Sundays) for the 10 minute walk into town and provisions. Have large and plenty fenders on the ready for either dock.

In town one can provision at a Champion market, or 2 oriental markets. Jean Luc at Liaut market speaks English. A sail down the east side of Raitea was a great day activity as we headed towards Isla Naonao, by Naonao Pass on the south side of the lagoon. We anchored in 20 feet of sand at 16 55.00S/151 25.80W by the NW corner of the island. The snorkeling around Isla Naonao, both by the reef just west of it and in the waters along its southern shore, was fantastic - and some of the best in the Societies.

Unfortunately, we were not welcomed on the island. An American has purchased it and placed caretakers there to chase you off should you choose to land. Although all beaches in FP are open and public, they tried to chase us off the beach as well. We finally said we would leave, but we took our time about it and enjoyed ourselves. They also tried to do the same thing to a group of locals that came out for the day, eliciting a similar response. I do not suppose that actions such as these ingratiate native French Polynesians to the USA.

3. Bora Bora

We did not spend much time in Bora Bora. The village and island were not as tidy as others, and the people simply did not appear to be as friendly and welcoming. The lagoon and the high island are striking and beautiful, however. The BB Yacht Club suffered significant damage in last years typhoon and is still being rebuilt - moorings are still available however. We biked around the island, did some light provisioning, and dove the Teavanui Pass with a dive service. The fish are fed here, and there were numerous large lemon sharks close at hand. Quite arresting, but the experience was tarnished due to the fact that they interfered and fed the reef fish.

4. Mopelia (or Maupihaa)

Mopelia is located approximately 135 nm WSW of Bora Bora. A true atoll, Mopelia has an extremely NARROW entry, but one that is protected as it lies on the NW corner. There is almost always an outflowing current of 3 or more knots; the water is roiled in the pass and just outside, but standing waves over 1 foot rarely will form.

Charts show a village in the NE corner as well as several bouys and marks around the pass, but the village is no longer there and reportedly it was destroyed by a typhoon sometime in the 1990's. You will now find the ruins of several homes and remnants of a pier. The 3 families that inhabit the island in 2010 all live in the SE corner. A large family headed by Calami and Sophie inhabit the "middle" homestead, including Calami's son, daughter-in-law, and several grandchildren . There are two other small families living there as well but we did not meet them.

Mopelia highlights include a very beautiful lagoon, nice beaches, and solitude. The diving just outside the pass is exceptional, the best we had done in the Societies. The snorkeling is good too, although you have to consider snorkeling outside the pass with surge and swells, or just inside the pass with considerable current.

Pass entry information was provided to us by Scott on S/Y Beachhouse, and I present it here with minimal changes, as we could not say it better ourselves.

THE ENTRANCE PASS HAS TWO BLACK AND WHITE POLES THAT ARE ABOUT 90 FEET APART AND SET AT AN ANGLE. THE FIRST POLE IS THE NORTHERLY ONE AND YOU KEEP IT ON YOUR LEFT HAND AS YOU ENTER. THE SECOND (SOUTHERLY) POLE EDGES THE REEF ON THE RIGHT AS YOU ENTER.

THE ONLY TIME YOU DON'T WANT TO COME HERE IS IN A WESTERLY. PASS CURRENT, 2-6 KNOTS DEPENDING ON TIME OF DAY. YOU'D LIKE SOME 10:30 AM TO 2 PM SUN. NO STANDING WAVES BIGGER THAN 1-2 FEET AT THE STRONGEST CURRENT. YOUR CHART WILL BE (LIKE MAUPITI), SLIGHTLY OFF. THE ISLAND IS FURTHER NORTH BY ABOUT 220 YARDS THAN ON OUR CHARTS (NAVIONICS). MAXSEA AND C-MAP ARE THE SAME.

IT LOOKS VERY NARROW FROM THE OUTSIDE....AND...IT IS! HOWEVER, WE DID NOT THINK IT A PROBLEM AT ALL AND WE ARE VERY FAT. THE KEY IS....YOU WANT TO FAVOR THE RIGHT ONCE INSIDE. THE CHART MAKES IT LOOK LIKE A LONG NARROW DRY REEF ON BOTH SIDES. IT'S NOT!...THE RIGHT IS DRY, THE LEFT SIDES OBSTRUCTIONS ARE ALL VERY SHALLOW AND NOT EASILY SEEN, PUT SOMEONE AT THE LOWER SPREADERS. YOU HAVE 14-16 FEET (FROM THE SURFACE) AT ALL TIMES. ONCE INSIDE, THE REEF OPENING SORT OF FANS OUT. WATCH THE SHALLOWS ON THE RIGHT AND USE THEM AS YOUR GUIDE. THE FURTHER IN YOU GET, THE MORE YOU WILL START TO GET AWAY FROM THE RIGHT SIDE, THAT'S OKAY. DISCONCERTING AS ONCE INSIDE ABOUT 100 YARDS, IT LOOKS LIKE BOMMIES IN FRONT OF YOU. THERE ARE!...BUT, THAT'S WHERE YOU GET 14-16 FEET MINIMUMS. MOST OF THE CHANNEL INCLUDING THE ENTRANCE IS 25-60 FEET DEEP.
JUST THE SIDES ARE ONE FOOT DEEP, BUT VERY EASY TO SEE. ONCE PAST THE BOMMIES, YOU CAN BASICALLY GO ANYWHERE IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LAGOON. THERE ARE ABANDONED PEARL FARM BUOYS ON THE WEST/SOUTH SIDES. SOME IN THE MIDDLE, SOME 2 FEET DEEP...THOSE YOU WANT TO WATCH FOR. 10 PEOPLE ON THE SOUTH WEST SIDE OF THE EASTERN MOTU. KALAMI AND SOPHIE AND FAMILY. RUSTIC DOESN'T COME CLOSE TO DESCRIBING THEIR LIFE STYLE!.... COPRA HARVESTING. THEY WOULD LOVE SOME FRESH FRUIT, IT WOULD BOND YOU IMMEDIATELY.

Of note, there is a chart offset of approximately 220 yards, with the chart shifted to the north. In other words, the pass as seen on the chart will be north of your entry point by this amount – your boat will lie 220 yards south of the charted pass as you enter. Our waypoints were as follows:

Approach – 16 46.868S/153 58.735W
Approach - 16 46.913S/153 58.678W
Pass Outer Entry Point - 16 46.953S/153 58.627W
Inner Pass Exit - 16 47.155S/153 58.381W
Inner Pass Approach - 16 47.317S/153 58.242W

Once inside, navigation is not difficult in good light. There are few reefs to avoid, but numerous abandoned pearl buoys abound, and many are just submerged. Be aware.

One can head down to the SE anchorage area, waypoint 16 49.683S/155 65.63W, or head more or less east to a second anchorage near 16 47.05S/153 56.66W. The SE anchorage is near the inhabited area of the atoll, and provides slightly more protection in winds from the south to east. The eastern anchorage provides better protection from the east to north, and access to the pass for diving. Neither anchorage area would be enjoyable in westerlies.

In light easterlies it is reported that one can anchor just inside the pass by the western motus south of the entry, but winds did not cooperate during our stay. We moved to the eastern anchorage and took the dinghy 1.65 nm across the lagoon to dive. There is quite a bit of current in the pass and a 15 HP or greater engine is best for this as you traverse the pass, and then return to the anchorage against the east wind. There is a buoy just outside the pass on the south side which marks the anchor chain of "The Seadler" shipwreck, and one can tie the dinghy to it for a dive along the wall to the south of the pass. You can begin your dive by dropping 30 feet to the bottom in nice coral, and then proceed a short distance west to the wall. We dove to 70-90 feet and (turned left) swam south against a very light counter current along a beautiful 70 degree wall. Coral was great, fish were large and abundant. We turned around at a ravine about 20 – 25 minutes into the dive (~1800 psi), ascended to 30-40 feet, and drifted back with the current. The dive then continues past the buoy to the edge of the pass, where you hang out and watch the fish and their antics. It was stupendous.

Another time we brought a heavier anchor (mother ship stern anchor) and did a similar dive along the north wall. Also excellent, but perhaps the coral was not quite as healthy and the North wall of the pass has more current and less visability.

Enjoy.

Goodbye FP

18 31.2S 159 14.2W
40 miles NE of Aitutaki, Cook Islands

We said goodbye to French Polynesia on Thursday morning (15th) with a 3 boat caravan departure from Mopelia. Besides Curious, a Cat we met the day before (Bubas) was leaving as well, so we started a small "net" to talk a few times a day. The passage has been uneventful, and reasonably pleasant. Sea state is a little rough, but wind has been steady and we are making very good time. For most of the trip we have been able to see Curious, which is very weird, but quite comforting really.

In Aitutaki we willl not be able to enter inside the lagoon (too shallow through the pass) so we are bit weather dependant there. Hopefully our weather window holds and we can spend 3-4 days there.

We really liked Mopelia and would hightly suggest it for any divers in our wake. The wall dives on either side of the pass are excellent, especially the southern wall. There is a bouy to pick up, tied to a long length of chain on the botom just south of the pass in about 25 feet of water. From there you decend down the wall anywhere from 60 to 100+ feet depending on how long you want to stay and travel south. We maxed out at about 90 feet, staying mostly around 70 feet till we got to about 1800 psi. In this area we saw lots of larger palagic fish, including tuna, jacks, & pompano, as well as nice reef fish in the healthy coral. Also, at this depth there is almost no current along the wall. From there you can turn up the wall onto the coral shelf in 40-25' where there is a nice gentle counter current to bring you back to the pass along the top. Here, lots of colorful coral, some sharks, and still lots of fish (palagic and reef). In just a few minutes you will be back at the mooring. From there we traveled all the way to the wall of the pass. Here the southern side is much better with pretty decent visability and a very cool overhanging wall. We held on here till be were down to 750psi and saw lots of large parrot fish, jacks, and many others swimming in the current or hanging out along the wall. The North side had way more current on the wall and not much to see, but the south was relavitely calm (at times could let go for a few minutes without going anywhere) and very cool coral formations to explore. Probably our best dive yet. Not quite as dramatic a wall as Toau, but better fish, and with the coral flat and pass, it has more interest overall. Viz was excellent everywhere other than in the pass itself. We dicided not to bother diving the pass as it is VERY fast and viz was quite limited. In more settled conditions, the pass might be great.

We were giving the compressor quite the workout, with two dives the first day and another on the second day for a total of 11 tank fills (mom skipped the first dive), so I had to change out the filter. Usually not a big deal, but the top fo the filter stack was being quite stuborn and my wrench slipped off it, causing my face to implant itself on the corner of the fan cage (OWWW!). Now I look like my dad at my college graduation (he closed the rear gate of his Explorer on his forehead).

All is well. We are on a bit of a schedule now to get to NUI for Mom & Trish's Birthdays (1st & 2nd of August) and then on the American Samoa for Mom's flight on the 15th. It means we only get about 3 days in each of the next 3 stops (Aitutaki, Palmerston Atol, and Beverage Reef). Thats all for now.

midnight watch-version 10

18 30.4 S 159 12.8W between Mopelia and Aitutaki

Good morning from the nav(navigation) staion here at 1 am. It's a beautiful clear starry night and I am on watch on a 2 day, 2 night passage from Mopelia to Aitutaki in the southern Cook Islands. This has been one of our kindest passages with fair weather and long wave trains that are only 7-8 ft seas. A small roll but none of the herky jerky stuff that throws us around and otherwise makes us a bit miserable. We have been making 7-10k speeds for the bulk of the trip and have flown a combo of full to double reefed main with either the jib or the larger reacher out on the pole (our version of a spinnaker). True downwind sailing and much more what the Pacific is supposed to be like. Not bad!!!

We have officially left French Polynesia . So sad to be sailing away from the land of baguettes and ripe cheeses. The good news is we think we will be in English speaking territories for the remainder of our trip. As fun as the stumbling and bumbling of Spanish and French has been for the last year it will be nice to be able to just talk to peiople without all the thought and frustrations. If I could do it all over the one thing I would change or encourage other cruisers would be to be better prepared language wise. Really wish I had of had the time to take a few classes at the Penobscot school and been more fluent in both Spanish and French.We got by but I can only imagine what we missed and how much more we might have experienced with a better command of the native tongues in these foreign places.

We have had the good fortune of buddy boating with a lovely English (they actually live in So. Wales) couple on their Oyster 56. The boats are amazingly well matched and these past 2 days we have pretty much been within a few miles of each other. Definitely changes the whole feeling of being (or not in this case) out here all alone with nothing but ocean ocean everywhere. Rather comforting and their company is fabulous to boot. Lots of shared dinners and laughs ( when at anchor that is) and some fun excursions during the day as well. Trish does not dive so for Steve it was really great to have us to go out with as it was all on our own diving in Mopelia. We did 3 (2 for me) dives in 2 days and found it to be the best diving since the Tuomotus. The coral was alive and well/very beautiful and the water clarity exceptional. Saw some very larg pelagic fish which was different as well as lots of the beautiful colorful butterflies, angels,wrasses, and surgeonfish that these waters are famous for. Amazing just amazing colors and a bunch of new species to add to our list of fish sighted. Only a few sharks which actually is fine with me. We dove outside the pass which I had described on our entry in as narrow and hairy. It was that, though not as intimidating in a dinghy as in the big boat . A wet and wild dinghy ride back however as the fetch did have a chance to kick up the seas in the lagoon. We had taken two dinghies and Gram and I were airborne and so soaked that he had to wear his snorkle mask to be able to see...very funny! Spent both afternnoons on the beach ( a lovely white sand palm lined stretch) playing some boules and going for walks with Steve and Trish. There are only a handful of people on Mopelia (one man , his wife and a grown son with child and another woman who lives by herself supposedly). We only met the one man and actually moved down the beach to the deserted anchorage in the north to be closer to the pass and the diving. There we did find the remains of a couple of homes that were destroyed in a cyclone in the past year or two. Strangely enough there were still a bunch of chickens and a mama pig with two piglets roaming the beach. Guess there is a male pig somewhere nearby too.

We are praying for a bunch of calm days as the next few places we are headed will not have much protection and we will be uncomfortable if the seas are rough or rolly. Will see how lucky we get and move on if not. Time to wake Gram up and get a few more hours of sleep myself.